What the categories are
- Signal peptides — intended to prompt collagen production
- Carrier peptides — deliver trace minerals such as copper
- Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides — marketed for expression lines
- Enzyme-inhibiting peptides — intended to slow collagen breakdown
What the evidence supports
Studies on specific peptides show modest improvements in fine lines, hydration and firmness. Effects are real but small, and results with one peptide don't transfer to another.
Independent research on finished consumer products is far thinner than manufacturer literature suggests.
What we won't claim
That peptides tighten loose skin, replace lost facial volume, substitute for a retinoid or produce dramatic firming. Any of those on a label is a reason for scepticism, not enthusiasm.
Are they worth using?
- As an addition to a routine that already has sunscreen, moisturiser and a retinoid — reasonable.
- As a well-tolerated option for people who can't use retinoids — sensible.
- As the centrepiece of an expensive firming regimen — not supported.
How to use them
Serum form, applied to clean damp skin before moisturiser, once or twice daily. Peptides pair comfortably with almost everything, including niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, and are usually well tolerated.
